Don’t leave a cue near a heat source or anywhere the cue will become cold and damp. Wood doesn’t react well to extreme temperatures hot or cold. So the next time you think about leaving your cue in the car think again ! This is a common cause to why the wood has moved, swelling or shrinkage can happen due to moisture content changing.
Don’t use sandpaper or abrasive pads. This will remove the finish on the cue and wear the shaft away.
Never bang your cue directly down on the floor or on the table, your cue deserves respect.
When a tip is worn and needs changing don’t wait to fit a new one, playing with a tip that’s had it’s day isn’t going to do you any favours and you might end up requiring a new ferrule because of this.
Keep your cue and hands clean.
Don’t use water to clean your cue.
What to check to confirm your cue is in good condition.
If you have a jointed cue check the joint is clean – over time the joint can become dirty, if this is the case a dirty joint will often cause a bad connection and create an awful noise when striking the cue ball. How to fix – Use 0000 Wire wool to clean off the build up of dirt.
Check the ferrule – A good ferrule is very important, this is what supports the tip so needs to be in good condition. If badly worn a ferrule can be replaced easily. The ferrule is the most likely cause of strange noises coming from a cue, they can become loose over time and a simple reset ( Glue ) is usually enough to have your cue back to normal.
Check to see if your cue is straight – To see if a cue is straight requires sighting down like a gun barrel, this is the best way to check straightness. Rolling a cue on the table doesn’t always give a good indication to if a cue is straight. There are several reasons for this, butt joints and shaft tapers are the most common reasons for a cue not to roll flat to the table. I’ve seen bent cues roll flat so beware !!
Check the shaft – The shaft can become dry over time, to look after and protect the shaft it’s best to use raw linseed oil. Before applying the oil you will need to clean the shaft, to do this ideally use 0000 wirewool, buff the cue over with this, you can be safe in the knowledge that it won't scratch / mark or damage the cue. If the shaft has a build up of grease and chalk you can wipe the cue down with a slightly damp cloth and dry. Do not use a lot of water as can cause the shaft wood fibres to swell. When the cue is clean apply raw linseed oil using a cloth or kitchen paper towel, leave for a few hours or overnight to soak in. Wipe off surplus oil and buff cue with a clean cloth until smooth and dry.
Checking the Butt - When the wood becomes too dry, grain in the wood can open, it’s shrinkage, these are known as shakes, basically cracks in the wood, oiling helps to prevent moisture loss and shake cracks appearing in the wood. The butts of handmade cues are typically crafted from Ebony, often with additional exotic wood splices. Because these cues are naturally finished without thick lacquers or varnishes, the wood needs a little care to stay healthy. Just like the shaft, the butt can dry out and lose moisture, sometimes surprisingly quickly. In the winter/cold periods most cues are kept in heated rooms, dry, warm air accelerates moisture loss. To help prevent this and maintain the cue’s stability, we recommend treating the butt with raw linseed oil. Raw linseed oil penetrates the wood far better than boiled linseed oil, which dries too quickly to be effective. A new cue will still require occasional oiling as the wood settles. Applying a small amount of raw linseed oil nourishes the timber, helps protect it, and supports long‑term stability. We suggest oiling your cue at least twice a year for best results. As the oil absorbs, it gently hardens and strengthens the surface fibres. In our experience, this also helps preserve the cue’s playability, the natural “life” and spring. When a cue becomes overly dry, it can feel a little flat or lifeless in play, regular oiling helps prevent that.
Shaft maintenance
A Cue’s finish and condition will vary, but most of the time a buff down with a dry micro-fibre towel will keep your cue feeling smooth. If over time you have a build-up of grease and chalk on your cue, a wipe down with a very slightly damp cloth ( never wet ) will help to remove this. Please note – Never wipe down a new cue with a damp cloth, this will remove the original thin oil finish and leave your cue feeling dry. It’s better to never use a damp cloth on your cue, using a damp cloth regularly will remove the dark grain from an ash shaft, this will leave your cue feeling lumpy. We recommend – Sil Kleen shaft cleaner & Cue Silk shaft conditioner. These are simple to use and great for cleaning and making a cue super smooth, regardless of the type of finish on a cue. These products are sold in our cue care section on the website.
